Tuesday, 24 January 2012

Haute Couture | Silvery Siren Gowns by Atelier Versace

Paris Haute Couture - Atelier Versace Spring/Summer 2012 

Donatella Versace's comeback to the Paris couture schedule was made official today with the first public presentation of her Atelier Versace collection in eight years. If "presentation" sounds like a modest, low budget affair, forget it: There's nothing very reserved or quiet about building a golden plinth - a towering set of stairs - on which to pose a troop of futuristic glamazons in sparkling lace gowns and starship bodysuits. It was a tableau that might echo the old days of Alta Moda, when Italian couturiers showed their dresses on the Spanish steps in Rome, perhaps, or a sci-fi-fantasy. the only aspect that was down-to-earth was the fact that the audience stood to watch, some resorting to sitting on the floor.

The silvery siren gowns and gold filigree dresses and biker jackets were worked in combination of lace, leather, crystalline sugar-granule beading, and rose motifs. Sharp half-moons of gold aluminium, inserted to jut at the hips, or cut into angular slices to emphasize corsets, gave a sense of futuristic drama to sinous silhouettes calculated to glorify every curve of the Versace rock-goddess body. With the suggestion of peplums, and the underpinnings of short showing through sheer segments of lace, the look hit on two trends of the moment, but really, this was a continuation of everything the house has always done. Stepping back into the limelight of couture is a positive step for Donatella - and a fillip to the spirit of this round of shows.

Donatella is back, you might these noticed. Riding high on the off-the-scale reaction to her H&M collaboration in November, she's now chosen the moment to return Atelier Versace to public visibility during Paris couture week. "I felt so liberated by it", she said of the H&M collaboration. which sould out globally within two days. "It's given me confidence," She could've added Angelina Jolie making it on almost all of the Golden Globes best-dressed lists last week in an ivory and red satin Atelier Versace dress to her list of positive auguries, too.

For the fact is that Versace's couture operation has been carrying on uninterrupted all along; it's just that Donatella has kept it off the runway (not even allowing press to report on private views) since 2004. Now she's stepping back, consolidating the high-low arc of the Versace empire with a series of presentations at the Ècole des Beaux-Arts today morning.

Last week in Versace's studios in Milan, the seamstresses were hard at it, pinning and embroidering fourteen looks on dress-dummies made up to the size of the models who will wear them. Exactly what looks will transpire from the combinations of lace and slivers of aluminium remains to be seen, but let it be known: the foundations, boned corselettes, and lace body-suits that were in the midst of being prepared for the show are inimitably done. By the time they're swishing lithely around today, they'll be undectectable to the naked eye, but these elements are the eternal house secrets which make Atelier Versace work so well on the red carpet.

Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accesories 

Photo Credit/Source: VOGUE
Photography by Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway


Spring/Summer 2012 collection, fashion show and review

1 comment:

Shagun said...

Absolute diva-esq glamor & sexiness by design. I love the intricate, beautiful work on every dress...esp rose motifs on sheer gowns.My favorite is bright neon green, defined, sexy dress with a thigh high slit.Delightful editorial on Ateliar Versace, dear Andrea!!!...Regards, Shagun

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